The Domesday book
records manors and smallholdings farmed by groups of freemen; and
it is interesting that the Cistercian monks founded their Abbey at
close‑by Sibton, continuing their tradition of building in
beautiful landscapes, and diverting the Yox to flow through their
buildings. These very skilful farmers and providers of food to the
local poor and needy would build where the ground was fertile and
easy to till, thus providing greater rewards with their efforts. So
along the valley the pretty village of Yoxford built up from the
original settlements ‑ with its big houses providing work for
gardeners and farm workers, each housed in the village along with
the tradesmen. All cottages had gardens, and after paid work was
done for the day they would turn to their own gardens and
allotments not only to feed their families but also a certain
amount of competitive spirit would be found amongst the villagers,
often culminating in a produce and flower show.
Yoxford High Street
today still is the central feature of the parish, broad and lined
with a delightful variety of houses, cottages and small business
premises, all beautifully kept with gardens to be proud of. A small
park, and almost in the middle, the Church of St Peter, kept and
cared for with love over the centuries by its parishioners. Bounded
on all sides by well‑farmed land, from the greens and bright yellow
of springtime, golden harvests and rich brown furrows Yoxford
rightly still holds the title of 'Garden of Suffolk'.
Situated in the heart
of Suffolk, with the A12 trunk road from Great Yarmouth to London
(the old coaching route) running through one side of the village,
roads to Stowmarket to the west, and Aldeburgh, Leiston, Dunwich,
Walberswick and Southwold to the east, Yoxford is well placed to be
a base for exploration of the Suffolk Heritage Coast.
Yoxford is surrounded
by parkland. Towards Peasenhall is Sibton Park, with a large
well‑stocked fishing lake. In the village is Grove Park, once the
home of the Davy family ‑ the noted historian David Elisha Davy has
his memorial in the Church; Rookery Park on the Leiston road, the
home of the Hambling family; and Cockfield Hall manor house of
Yoxford Manor since medieval times.
In 1785 the main Ipswich to Great Yarmouth
turnpike was opened, and this in turn opened up Yoxford for passing
trade.
The
previous small village grew to a population of 1272 in the
busy times of 1851, with trades in the village including
farriers, coach builders, a fishmonger, a corn miller, a dyer,
five academies, three bakers, a basket maker, two blacksmiths,
a bookseller, nine shoemakers, three butchers, a cooper, a
druggist, a carrier, fourteen farmers, three grocers and
drapers, a hairdresser, four builders, four milliners, a
saddler, three surgeons, six tailors, four watchmakers, a
gunsmith, four wheelwrights and a stay maker.
Many men were employed on the land on the large
estates. There were several alehouses in the village at various
times; the Maid's Head now a private house, the Fife and Drum,
originally a manor house of Murriells Manor, now the site of a
private house, the New Inn, now the Blois Arms, the King's Head,
the Griffin, and the biggest and most impressive, the Three Tuns .
This large Coaching Inn was situated opposite the Church, and had a
large assembly room, dining and sitting rooms, bars and 20 letting
beds, extensive cellars, stalls for 40 horses, coach houses and
granaries. The Magistrates held court here. Tragically it burnt to
the ground in 1925; part of the site is now occupied by a private
house and the Garage.
The railway came to Yoxford in 1858 with the
station at Darsham, and communications and travel became easier.
Gradually the road and coaching trade waned, the farm work on the
big estates became mechanised; people moved away to find work
elsewhere, and today Yoxford has a population of about 1000, with
two public houses and the trades described in “Our
Businesses”
Walking through the village from the A12 towards
Peasenhall, there are several styles of architecture and points of
interest to note. Amongst them, firstly we have the long low Pine
trees, now one house from the original three early 1700's cottages.
The Old Schoolroom was the original Wesleyan Chapel, but when the
congregation outgrew the building, land was purchased next door and
a new chapel was built in white brick and in the gothic style.
This, together with the Primitive Methodist Chapel, further along
the High Street, is now a private dwelling.
A small attractive lodge cottage with decorative
neo‑Jacobean brickwork borders the High Street Entrance to
Cockfield Hall.
The Hall,
set back from the road (but viewable from the footpath leading
from the lodge out to the AI 2) was the moated manor house for
Yoxford Manor, and has been owned by the families of Norwich,
Brooke, Hopton and Blois. Each family has been influential in
their patronage of the church, St Peter's, situated opposite
the High Street entrance to Cockfield Hall. In 1567 Lady
Katherine Grey, younger sister of Lady Jane Grey, was
imprisoned in Cockfield Hall after being banished from Court
by Queen Elizabeth. She died here and was first buried in
Yoxford Church, but later reburied in Salisbury
Cathedral.
Past the Bookshop lies Mulberry Park, with picnic
area and children's amenities. The Old Vicarage was for 200 years
the home of the tannery; it was for a time an academy, and the
present art gallery was the schoolroom. The Church acquired the
property in 1841 when it became the Vicarage. Continuing along High
Street next is Yoxholm, between Merrivale and Barnsdale, which
belonged to James Bird, the poet, in 1820. His trade was bookseller
and stationer, and the shop later became a library and reading
room. We come to the Blois Arms, and then the Coal Yard, formerly
Payne’s, with its distinctive Flemish gable, pargetting and high
wall braces in the letters 'T U’ after Thomas London, a former
occupier.
A walker continuing along the pathway will arrive
at Little Street, a smaller part of the village which housed the
Blacksmith, a rat catcher, a sweet shop and a small brewery, and at
the end of the lane a footpath which leads to the corner where
stood the Yoxford gibbet, just off the Sibton Road, known as Dead
Man's Corner.
Turning back, and following the path along Little
Street and High Street, the large house on the corner of Strickland
Manor Hill is Yoxford Place, formerly Elmsley. This impressive
building was once owned by Charles Wade, later of Snowshill Manor
in the Cotswolds. A good description of Elmsley is given in Wade's
book 'Days Far Away'.
The Old Beer House once called Caxtons;
named from a previous owner, was
at one time the Maid's Head. Next is the attractive Hope
House, at one time an orphan’s home, and then comes Wisbech
Cottage, delightfully bent, built in the 16th century and
largely unaltered structurally since that time. Note the
pargetting on Starlings; the 17th century front of Minsmere
House; spot the tromp L’oeil on Stanhope; the industrious
‑looking Cotton's Yard; the Trafalgar balcony and milestone at
Milestone House, and walk round and view the cottage tucked
behind Milestone House.
Passing the Griffin public house, the wall to
your right hides the old bowling green once belonging to the Three
Tuns, now a private house and garden. The finger post in the corner
of the Churchyard was erected in 1831 with its arms pointing to
London, Great Yarmouth and Framlingham, the routes of the
coaches.
St Peter's Church on its imposing elevated
position in the centre of the village was mentioned in the Domesday
Book. The present building dates from about 1400, with later
alterations and additions in the 16th and 19th centuries. There are
some impressive brasses and hatchments to be seen, and the Church
guidebook is available for further reading.
Continuing along High Street, Church Lane leads
to the right of the Churchyard with a number of attractive
cottages. The Old Bakery stands on the corner. Along Church Lane is
Cleghorns , previously the site of the mineral water factory.
Yoxford Primary School further along High Street celebrated its
centenary in 1997; the previous National School built originally in
1837, is to be found on the A12 Saxmundham side. At the A12
junction is the Prince of Wales Oak and the Jubilee
Seat.
Several attractive properties lie on this main
road, Satis House, a classically styled large house once a private
residence, is now a hotel and restaurant; the little lodge house to
Rookery Park, the White House, with the gothic arched windows; the
Georgian Crossways looking across to Bank Corner, with its unusual
mix of house styles and thatched roofs. Further along the main road
going towards Saxmundham on the left are the Old Mill and Old Mill
House standing high on the hill to catch the wind, with its row of
Mill Cottages fronting the road to house the mill
workers.
The Old High Road
skirts the Church from the Three Tuns corner to the A12; this was
indeed the original coaching route. On the corner, in front of
Grove Cottage was the cattle pound, and it was also where the
stocks stood. The Village Hall and Playgroup have their entrance in
Old High Road, as do the Bowls Club with the new green and the
Cricket Club and the Cricket pitch. Two Tennis Courts are
incorporated in the grounds of the Village Hall, with free visitor
car parking.